Now is the time for trout/grayling fly fishers to move from tying and imagining to getting the gear ready too. Some are lucky to have year ’round fisheries. Others have the season openers looming. Here at Viata Si Pescuit the gear has been checked and prepared (pregatiri) and the basic flies are ready. Anticipation and planning.
My bro-n-law, Richard Zach, had an idea (actually several) and he is running with it. He is an avid gear guy that catches more than his share of fish and after spending considerable time on the Columbia and Willamette Rivers he has devised a handy magnetic device that would serve any fishermen in a boat (sled, drift boat or pontoon boat for sure)…it’s a strong circular magnet that will hold the pliers, files or ???. I intend to mount mine on my pontoon boats frame for my pliers, files, and forceps. Check out his site @ Stik-ItzShop.com
Several times a year, I find myself up logging roads toward upper drainages/tributaries of big rivers. I string up the 9′ to 9’6″ rod and set forth weaving my way, this way and that way, through the trees toward the waters edge. Once on the water, I scout the canopy and other over hanging growth to not only avoid hanging up the fly + tippet, but also to avoid smacking the rod tip.
The confines of a small stream quickly reveal the tangled web we weave when at first we use too big a stick on a small stream. Recently, I was privileged to review some DVD’s by Ed Herbst and in those DVD’s I noticed he was wielding short rods on narrow streams. He moved with ease, in stealth mode, and waved the little wand to delicately present his flies.
Now, this initially contradicts my impulse toward bigger waters, longer rods and more power. I have those rods and love them. But, those small streams are another enviro that beg the small stick. So, I invested in a couple Loomis rods, both 3 weights and shorter (7′ and 8′). For the last few years, I have used a 3 wt. (9′ St. Croix Legend) more and have handled some substantial trout on the 3 wt. These shorter rods have a softer, medium action and will most probably meet few fish beyond 14″….more like 6″ to 10″. If I do connect to a larger fish, it will be an epic story.
These are not rods for big rivers and big fish, which to my thinking would be potentially irresponsible if I am seeking a humane catch and release. These are sticks for little streams, the intimate confines and small flies. I am excited to use these on those private little escapes. Some of my best life time memories while fly fishing were on small streams.
My son, Tony, enjoying 'the moment' with an East Lake (Oregon) fish.
I came upon this old pic of one of my sons on East Lake. I have to say I am as partial to the puzzle of a lake as to dissecting a stream or river. A few observations about the above pic: Tony has two rods out on the lake. The one being used, carries a floating line and the second rod appears to have a clear Intermediate line. You will more often than not see him working the surface and just below with the floating line, where as I almost always stay with the Intermediate.
The pontoon sports 7′ composite oars by Buck’s Bags (maker of the pontoon boat). The ‘toons come with 6′ silver oars that are adequate but for pulling across big lakes, the longer, heavier oars are hard to beat.
He also has an anchor rigged up. Not the commercial set ups that are available and probably fine, but instead a bucket in back carries a 5# pryamid anchor attached to a poly rope. When the wind really kicks up and one wants to stay in the zone without kicking, the anchor on 40′ of rope provides a secure contact point with the bottom. We have rolled and bobbed through many 1-2 foot rollers in fairly secure fashion and haven’t hung up yet.
The vessel has larger than factory issue side pouches for storing gear. This better facilitates storing larger gear like clothing and too many fly boxes, water bottles, floatation device. The factory standard cargo pouches are not too bad but I prefer the larger ones for all day outings far from camp or the rig.
There are some reflective tape dots on the back of the seat for all the good it might do to assist speed boats moving across a lake at last light back to the ramp.
Lastly, while playing a fish, a large fish, be careful with that tip dipping down and back under the boat. Make sure, in advance that the drag is loose, not tight and be prepared as it runs to play stripped in line up through the guides in a gentle but yielding way to get the fish onto the reel. If the reel’s drag stays too tight and the fish surges as in the pic, you could suddenly have a broken rod tip.
Now none of that had anything to do with the usual what, where and how considerations of presentation. But, I noticed the pic and decided to note those things we all do to our gear, boat, pontoon, float tube that add that little extra degree of hoped for efficiency.
Kast Steelhead Glove
These are the times that try men’s (and a few women’s) fortitude. Freezing temperatures, wind, ice cold water and fishing. Often the vulnerable point are the hands, finger tips. Eventually the coordination, sense of touch is gone. Fumbling and slowness can prevail. It only takes so many such episodes for one to seek salvation. The Gink & Gasoline experience leads to the discovery of a remedy at Kast Extreme Fishing Gear
I came upon this actually simple, effective idea in a small gem…The Little Red Book of Fly Fishing by Kirk Deeter and Charlie Meyers. The late Mr. Meyers (C.M. in the book) offers up the idea of carrying a small pair of binoculars when fishing to scout a body of water for fish activity. He mentions being higher up on say an embankment. I wonder if this might work from a perch on a pontoon or drift boat on a lake. Couldn’t hurt to have them for hillside observations of deer, elk, bear or tree top eagles.
This is a nice little book for beginners. Deeter & Meyers provided practical information for the novice fly fisher and good refresher info for us all.
MISCALCULATING HIGH WATER & THERE GOES THE EXPENSIVE CAMERA AT PLANET 5D BLOG
Seems about this time of year with the change in the weather, I get into this ‘be prepared mode’. I probably go out into a wilderness setting more in the Spring and Summer, but the elements, light and the occasional lost hiker prompt me to at least share my concerns about being prepared and safe.
The just recent cases of an Oregon lady supposedly lost in the Mt. Hood Wilderness and the recovery/deceased of another woman in the nearby State of Washington raised my awareness to an internal process in Search and Rescue (SAR) missions: The consulting with experts to evaluate your probable chances of survival given the factors: were you prepared (gear), do you have a history of knowing how to conduct yourself in the wilds, the weather, the terrain, your known health/fitness factors, etc.
I want to share some very interesting stats and time line markers re the search and termination of the search should you become lost. The resources are very fascinating and should be read and shared.
“Oregon Health & Science University emergency medicine researchers set out to develop a model that could be used by search and rescue teams to determine when a search and rescue (SAR) mission could be terminated without abandoning potential survivors. The model found time to be the most important variable in determining whether a person will be found alive. Ninety-nine percent of people found alive were found within the first 51 hours after being reported missing. Their findings are published in the most recent edition of Wilderness and Environmental Medicine.“
“The model found a high rate of survival for people found within 17 hours of first being reported missing, a moderate rate of survival for those missing between 17 and 51 hours, and a low rate of survival for individuals missing for more then 51 hours. The analysis also found people reported missing in May through October were less likely to survive, as were people older than 60. Individuals reported missing on land were more likely to be found alive than those reported missing from a water-based activity.” (Read the entire report)
The SAR Missions are now, and probably have been, but now it is more openly presented, using these timeline markers and ‘experts’ to decide if the search will continue. If you are lost, you need to stay safe, composed and alert to SAR operations trying to find you. If you are family/friends of the lost person, the difficult decision re termination of SAR ops will be presented to you given the above timelines at some point. The probabilities of survival will be used to protect the searching resources. A fact of life, maybe a fact in death. Be prepared!!!
My Buck’s Bag South Fork Pontoon is at least 15 years old. It has with stood the rigors of lakes and rivers and never failed me, until recently. I will probably send in the leaking pontoon to get it fixed and keep it as a backup. It has become too heavy for me to lift by myself, up onto my rig.
So, I decided to spring for a new ‘toon, a new South Fork, with a slightly lighter frame. I transferred my spare rod holder over to the new rig along with my ginormous, side storage packs. I still have to transfer the oar holders and I will be good to go.
Can you see where the darn boulder hit the RRQ of my rig?
I will finish off with my pyramid anchor. I use the over size bags, less for the typical fly fishing stuff and more for clothing, camera gear and food. There is a ton of room for fly boxes. I am trying to pare down my quantity of fly boxes that I take out onto a lake. Rather than trying to cover all the bases, I try to think more and refine my fly boxes down a bit. If I really need it that bad, it will be back in the truck.
Less fumbling about re-rigging one rod with multiple lines. I have two rods out on the water. Yes, it looks like an antenna, and every once in awhile I catch it while casting, but rare. I can switch out rods quickly and present the dry/emerger/suspended patterns with the floating line.
Oar Holders (SwittersB)
Bucks Bags out of Idaho have a great reputation. I researched other suppliers and several have good reputations. I stayed with Bucks because 15 years of abuse on my other pontoon boat speaks well of the product’s reliability.
“Type of Landing Net
Despite the widespread use of landing nets by anglers there has been relatively little investigation into the damage caused by their use or which of the available types of net result in the lowest injury to fish. Generally, it is recommended that the use of landing nets be limited as it is thought to increase fin damage, and remove the protective mucus layer, thus increasing susceptibility to disease. Barthel et al. (2003) examined the effects of landing net mesh type on injury and mortality in bluegill. They quantified the effects of netting for a 168 h period after capture and found that there was zero mortality in fish that were landed without a net while fish that were landed with a net experienced a mortality rate of 4 to 14%. There was also increased pectoral and caudal fin abrasion and dermal disturbance (scale and mucus loss). Of he four types of landing net mesh types compared (rubber, knotless nylon, fine knotted nylon and coarse knotted nylon), the knotted mesh types resulted in greater injury and mortality than rubber or knotless mesh. Thus, injury (and therefore mortality) can be reduced if the use of landing nets is limited to those instances where their use is required to safely land and control fish to prevent mechanical injury. However, when the use of a landing net is required or preferred, it is best to use one made of rubber or knotless mesh.” Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources
Don't Ask (SwittersB)
I carry a net for lakes. I went to a wider, long handled, rubber mesh net several years ago. I generally wet the net, by submerging it and drawing the fish into the basket and lifting. I don’t draw a fish into a dry net, as this will indeed remove a great deal of mucous. Also, I wet my hands if I intend to or need to remove the fish from the net back into the water. Often I can remove the barbed hook from the fish and lower the net back into the water and ease the fish back into the water. If the fish is tired, I will cradle it in the net in the water as I find this easier than attempting to grip the slippery wrist/tail of a bigger fish. Smaller fish, say 14″ or smaller, are released with forceps or pliers on the fly and letting the fish pivot off the barbed hook. Nets can be expensive. Wooden framed nets deserve some extra care, if you spring for one.
