Hair Ties Used for Tippet Tenders (SwittersB)
If you have ladies in your life with longer hair, you no doubt come across these little gems everywhere. On the floor, in beds, counter tops…they seem to be everywhere except in their hair. Well, as they inadvertently discard them, you should gather them and use them to wrap around tippet spools as the original rubber bands break. They work nicely on the Maxima size spools and even the smaller, more prevalent tippet spools.
Slip Bobbers: I have written a couple of times about this technique, I first saw on a BC TV production with Brian Chan. If you query slip bobber in the search box you can find those additional posts. Today, I wanted to point to a nice piece by ‘Doc’ Monteith at Fly Fishing Central that has some specific visuals of not only the slip bobber rig but of the fly set up as well.
One thing I have adopted long ago for working the horizontal presentation was the non-slip loop knot. But, Monteith advocates it for vertical presentations as well. I find the larger loop and hooking capabilities interesting. I would hesitate to impart too much available movement in a vertical presentation, yet Monteith says it has improved his hookups. Worth a try for sure..
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“Whether using one fly or a multi-fly rig, presenting your flies is important and the knots you choose to use can impact your success. For years I tied my chironomids using an improved clinch knot to the eye of the fly, then a couple years ago I started using a non-slip loop knot. This change in presentation has increased my catch rates substantially and I now only use the clinch knot in specific situations. The non-slip loop knot is not only strong but because it doesn’t synch up to the eye of the fly, it leaves the fly moving freely and more naturally in the water. I’ve found the size of the loop does not appear to affect catch rates…..” (more to read)
Popular Mechanics
“Finally, use a desiccant to wick away any leftover moisture. The most convenient choice is uncooked rice. Just leave the phone (and its disconnected battery) submerged in a bowl of grains overnight. If you’re worried about rice dust getting inside your phone, you can instead use the packets of silica gel that often come stuffed in the pockets of new clothes. But acting fast is far more important than avoiding a little dust….The most important thing to remember is to avoid heat. That means no hair dryers, ovens, microwaves or extended periods in direct sunlight. While heat will certainly evaporate the moisture, it could also warp components and melt adhesives…” (more)
“The point of the dubbing needle can quickly become covered with a build-up of varnish, epoxy and head cement. This can be scraped away with a blade, but I keep my needles clean with another method. I have a 35 mm film canister that I have filled with wire wool. All you need to do is push your built-up dubbing needle through the canister top down into the wire wool a few times and your needle is as new!” (Mustad Fly Tying Helpful Hints)
Coiled 'Sighter' Strike Indicator
International fly fishing competition creates innovations to comply with rules and yet still detect strikes. The ‘sighter’ coil is a tool in detecting strikes. Just an interesting concept. Also, read about Czech, Spanish and French nymphing setups and techniques. (The Fly Fishing Reporter)
After just a few short bursts you should be able to smell the wonderful aroma of bacon.
“I gave this about 250 rounds, but I think around 150 might actually be enough.” Ready on the left? Ready on the right?………………. I think that lil’ gal might need more bacon too. Fire!
This is a nice looking little midge emerger I tied. Size 18. But, do you see the flaw? No, not the thread body that is bumpy from too large a thread (8/0)…the tail. Do you see how it is rolled over on the far side of the hook rather than on top of the shank? When you pinch the material between your thumb and forefinger tips and place it over the shank, at the bend, the material is sometimes attached by wrapping the thread over the top of the material, then away to the far side of the shank and then underneath. The torque or pull of the thread is often away from you and this causes the material you were holding to roll away from you to the far side of the shank/bend…hence…the above tail over on the far side. The fly probably would track ok under water..but on a larger scale the fly would lay to the left. So, a technique (the pinch loop) that I usually do out of habit failed me above and I should have noticed and reapplied the tail.
So, before I show you the pinch loop technique…let me mention this…whatever you wrap…feel free to unwrap the previous wraps to correct mistakes. This a habit that will stand you in good stead down the road when tying flies. Now, the fly above was small and my eyesight betrayed me in seeing the mistakes. The camera lens revealed the flaws…but, in larger sizes you will often see your mistakes and I encourage you to undo-redo. Now the pinch loop technique.
I couldn’t really find adequate pictures, so I took some of my own…and, I did no better. So, let me try to explain. Secure the material you wish to tie in. In this case it is some tan feather fibers. The material is pinched between the thumb and forefinger. The material is set atop the hook shank/bend with the material as close to touching the top of the shank as possible.
The thread is brought up between the thumb and forefinger on your side then the thread is brought across the top loose (normally a big no no…no slack usually) and again worked up between the thumb and forefinger. Now pull the thread straight down, which causes the pinched loop, between your thumb and forefinger, to be drawn tight downward against the material setting atop the shank. Do it again. Take your fingers, that were holding the materials, away. The material should be setting on top of the shank. If it is, then wind a few more tight thread wraps…if not, unwrap and try again. Start the fly correctly and it will look nicer.
Noticed this old beauty on Jefferson St. in Corvallis, Oregon. Where’s the wind when you need it?
