Archive for February 21st, 2009

21
Feb
09

speaking of mildewy waders (clean them, renew them)

img_9240a

“Simm is reasonably specific about how to clean them. They recommend:

“Waders should be washed by hand, in a bathtub, in cold water using a powder detergent. Rinse thoroughly and allow to air dry, including the feet. Packaging or storing your waders wet may result in mildew and tape peeling. Simms Waders should not be dry-cleaned or put in the dryer. A water repellent treatment, such as Revivex®, will rejuvenate the water-resistant finish on your waders.”

I believe that they recommend powdered detergent because only enough will dissolve to create the cleaning solution. Liquid detergent can have excess detergent (beyond saturation) floating around the solution, and it can stick to the waders (where it may not all be removed by a rinse). Part of the water-repellency system for breathable waders is to have the fabric’s surface be water repellent. This allows the surface tension of the water to keep the water from wicking into the outer fabric layer and contacting the Gore-Tex membrane. Its like wax on the hood of your car – water beads up rather than spreading out into every nook and cranny. That is why they recommend the Revivex treatments periodically – just like waxing the car periodically. Any excess detergent on the waders will breakdown this part of the system, as will liquid soap because they are designed to break down the surface tension of the water.

NEVER apply detergent/soap directly to the waders. Only apply a fully dissolved solution to the waders, because it is nearly impossible to rinse off 100% liquid detergent/soap thoroughly with rinsing if it gets down in the fabric.

Getting waders dirty can also affect their water repellency for the same reason. Dirt and grime will make the outer fabric layer less water repellent. It may also get down against the waterproof membrane and wick water down to the membrane. If the water surface tension is broken by the dirt (indicated bywater wicking along the surface rather than beading up) you may get a little dampness coming through the membrane. I have personal experience with this. In areas of my old waders, I got “mullet juice” on them in a few select locations (on the inside and outside) , where I contacted the waders with my bait soaked hands. In those areas, they would feel a little damp after extended use until I thoroughly cleaned them.

P.S. Soaps tend to leave residues. so I would stick with detergent. Look up the recommendations of your wader’s manufacturer and follow them.”

crashq @ http://www.stripersonline.com/surftalk/showthread.php?t=553618

21
Feb
09

GO DO IT (offset Winter’s Inertia)

construction-girl-full

GO outside and survey the yard; now that you have done that put off starting the cleanup for another month…at least before Mother’s Day. Go get that pad and make a reasonable list of patterns you can start tying this Spring. Go take the wet waders and boots out of the trunk or back of the truck. They need to air out and dry for once. Go sort out the fly boxes and open them up to dry a bit. Go to the fly shop to get what you need, but don’t stand there in your best ExOfficio shirt seeking the opinion of the shop guys on what they think of the most recent article in Drake Magazine or comments in the Spey Pages. Go replace last seasons shortened butt sections and wind knotted leaders. Go finally figure out where that hole is in the left foot of your waders. Go empty out the wet match books, empty lighters and loose split shot from that dirty, stained pocket on the inside of your waders. Go wash your cold weather layers that by now have percolated to a disgusting manly smell. Go spring for the new vice, the new light, the new scissors or some feel good tool to initiate your Spring tying binge. Go research tube fly parts and experiment in a new direction. Go…

Ok, I have lost my train of thought. And, no I don’t have enough Go’s to travel the length of the Amazonian Beauty. She’d hurt you one way or another anyway. Enough to say, get off your ass and start muddling about. If you are a Winter steelheader then you have been busy, but I bet your stuff is a mess. A little clean up is in order…you’re the guy with the wet, mildewy waders in the back of your rig.

21
Feb
09

Possee Bugger (stacking the odds in your favor)

Possee Bugger~Caddis Fly Shop

Possee Bugger~Caddis Fly Shop

https://swittersb.wordpress.com/2008/12/12/possie-bugger-nymphamous-how-to-from-offb/

I have highlighted this pattern before. Look at it. It contains so many positive parts, that I wanted to show it again. OFFB often references  this fly because in their neck of the woods it is consistently productive. This pattern would be productive for all the trout species, and I imagine grayling.   

21
Feb
09

Borneo Nabau Giant Reptile (Photo: photoshopped or holy shit!)

Borneo Reptile or ?

Borneo Reptile or ?

“But now local villagers living along the Baleh river in Borneo believe the mythical creature has returned after this photo of a gigantic snake swimming along the remote waterways has emerged.

The picture,  taken by a member of a disaster team monitoring flood regions by helicopter, has sparked a huge debate about whether the photos are genuine or merely the work of photo-editing software.

Earlier this month scientists unearthed the fossil of a killer snake that was longer than a bus, as heavy as a small car and which could swallow an animal the size of a cow.

The 45ft long monster – named Titanoboa – was so big that it lived on a diet of crocodiles and giant turtles, squeezing them to death and devouring them whole.”

http://www.oddnewsarticles.com/127.html

21
Feb
09

Steelhead (if you are not a swinger, then nymph)

Doll's Hair Nymph

Doll's Hair Nymph

Prince Nymph

Prince Nymph

Copper Swan

Copper Swan

Cz Nymph

Cz Nymph

The Egg

The Egg

 Lately, I have been on the river flailing about with a Spey Rod. I am determined to master the techniques because it is aesthetically pleasing; because I have invested in the gear and because I am surrounded by highly successful fly fishers, who use the technique to the exclusion of other techniques. Prior to picking up the Spey rod, I was never one to swing Green Butt Skunks or Freight Trains. I had transitioned to steelheading from drift gear. My steelheading was bobbers & jigs, hardware or slinky’s, corkies & yarn and NYMPH’s. I caught many steelhead, especially with the nymphs (Winter and Summer). 

The other day, I was trudging uphill, back to the rig, when I encountered a young man headed down hill. We exchanged pleasantries..the usual stuff. He asked if I was hanging it up for the day…I said yes. He said, too bad…He had had recent success each afternoon about this time. I asked what he was using and he said nymphs and eggs. He said he was ol’ school (he was probably late 20’s) and had not yet converted to a two hander. We parted and as I got out of the waders, I watched him below. Wading a short distance out, slinging and dredging an egg pattern, fishing the edges and rod held high. That was how I had fished for steelhead for years with a spinning rod and a fly rod. I still knew it had merit. When one fishes multiple ways on stillwaters and rivers, you get distracted from the basics as you search out new gear, flies, techniques and places.

For the beginner and/or those resistant to change, nymphing, as for trout will definitely work for that big sea going trout…the steelhead (even salmon). Tie or use nymphs in sizes 10 (I know you can go smaller, but no need) to size 6. Nymph the seams and pocket water. Strike indicators, roll casting and mending; it is the same. Beef up the rod, at least a 6-7 wt. 

Two handers, single handers, nymphing, swinging. Just part of the arsenal. Heck you may just find yourself sometime plunking eggs, back bouncing or pulling plugs. Stay loose.            




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