Archive for November 22nd, 2009

22
Nov
09

Two Experiments for Midges (The Macro Shows the Flaws)

These are kind of like a Palomino Midge pattern. I used a size 18 hook and 14/0 thread (black and gray). The extended body is the micro dubbing brush, the wing is packing bubble wrap pieces and the wing case is pink antron on the left and cream on the right. I am not certain the bubble wrap material would float the pattern. I tied a half dozen to experiment with later. Below, I experimented with a midge pattern where you tie it in reverse. I have fascinated with these reverse ties (wing, thorax at the bend rather than up at the eye of the hook). I tied the below pattern on a size 18 hook. Once again, it is a bit daunting to see how sloppy a pattern looks when the macro lens captures every errant thread wrap or wayward hackle fiber. The hackle was much too big for the below pattern. Guess that is ok… Makes the work of the master photographers all the more impressive.


22
Nov
09

Feathers (Many Types & Many Colors)

FEATHERS

CONTACT INFO FOR SWALEF & SON

22
Nov
09

Excellent Tutorial Site for Beginning Fly Tying (UK Fly Dressing)

UKFlyDressing.com (Check Out All the Step by Steps)

22
Nov
09

Fly Tying the Simple Dubbed Pupa for beginners

Caddis, Chironomid, Mayfly, Scud…the simple pupa pattern is simple in silhouette and design. The basic fly then lends itself to the bead and/or the wing. Keep it sparse and the pattern can be tied in different colors, although I have a proven comfort with green.

The pattern can be tied on hooks ranging from size 10 to size 18. Today I tied size 16’s and 14’s for the bead heads. I used the curved pupa hook, but you could use a straight shank hook.

Limerick Bend

Depending upon the size bead you use, you may have to crimp the barb down, which you would anyway if practicing C&R. For straight shank hooks be certain the bend of the hook is a sproat bend, a more circular bend, which allows the hook to slide up around the bend and up the shank to the eye. A more confined bend (Limerick) will thwart the application of the bead.

I used 8/0 black thread. The dubbing was a synthetic blend of sparkle dubbing with no spikiness. Insect green (Caddis Green) depending upon the manufacturer and black were used. I dubbed to the thread as opposed to a dubbing loop and was careful to dub sparsely. A copper wire rib was used.

How To For Basic Non-Beaded Pupa:

Put hook in vise…attach thread..wrap to rear at bend…tie in copper ribbing…dub abdomen with green dubbing…wrap copper wire ribbing up abdomen spacing wraps to give segmented appearance. If wraps dig into dubbing and disappear then counter wrap over dubbing so that wire lays over top of dubbing wraps or grooves…tie off wire and cut (not with tips of scissors, further down on blades)…dub black thorax same thickness as abdomen…tie off the head.

If you were going to add the bead head then it is the first thing to do…slide the bead on and then apply thread and tie as described above. If a wet fly is desired then the starling or partridge wing is wrapped just ahead of the thorax (allow enough room for this and don’t crowd the eye). If you want a bead head-wet then the wing goes on as a last step right behind the bead. The rest of the fly is the same…built upon the basic dubbed pupa. Excellent Dubbing Information.



Fished alone or as a dropper in smaller sizes, the simplicity does not detract from the fly’s effectiveness. More is not better, except in our obsession to over tweak every pattern. There is a reality of the simple fly, well presented and attended to does catch fish. Most adornments beyond that are for our appreciation and artistic bent.





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