If you are ‘fortunate’ to fish in the Winter for Trout, fish a short line/leader from the tip of the rod, exploring the Czech Nymph presentation with multiple flies dredged as slow/low as possible in front of lethargic Trout. There can be exceptions of on the surface activity with midges, but overall work the bottom where Trout are holding in locations that require little effort maintain.
“Nymph fishing on a winter morning will certainly hone your skills for nymph fishing other times of the year. The sluggish metabolism of winter fish means their takes are softer and subtler than ever. It also means they won’t go as far out of their way to take your fly. Thus reading the water and being able to detect the softest takes is critical if you hope to hook some winter trout. I find a strike indicator essential for such nymph fishing. I also find that casting as short a line as possible to effectively fish a piece of water improves my odds of detecting a strike and setting the hook quickly – seems fish can spit out a nymph just as fast in the winter as in the summer. Also keep moving and fish new water. Since many fish won’t be actively feeding you need to cover as many fish as possible to increase your odds of finding one ready to take a fly.” (Hafele’s Laughing Rivers)
Short sleeves are gone in the Pacific NW. But, with some diligence and thinking, Trout can be had. Like Hafele, that idea of hammer smashed finger tips (the sensation) requires some serious mind control. Identify which streams might be open year round and then contemplate what might hatch in the Winter and after that what searching nymph patterns to use. Presentation, holding water, short lines, soft bites. Caught/Released.
Pheasant Tail Nymphs by SwittersB.
I recently had a friend remark about reading my blog, but not understanding a portion. I enquired about the confusion. It was a very simple concept. I had not elaborated with more specificity because I just assumed it was so obvious. But, that was a mistake on my part. The basics of fly fishing, like riding a bike, seem so simple, so natural that we (I) forget the beginner’s learning process…from the very beginning. This blog has always been steered toward two things: info for the beginner and visual/mental stimulation for the active fisher that wants, needs, craves to be out there, but because of real life, just can’t make it out there anytime soon.
Many people are out and about this time of year fishing, camping, picnicking, celebrating their family and friends. I notice my blog numbers drastically drop each weekend and surge back up on weekdays. You are out enjoying life or perhaps like me out taking care of real life obligations and duties that prohibit outdoor/recreational visits.
So, periodically I will share links that provide a refresher of basics about how to tie flies or rig up for fly fishing presentations. So, here are a few simple pieces about rigging/fishing small nymphs that will act as a how to helper for beginners: (an Orvis piece) (a Hubpages piece).
A GUIDE TO CZECH NYMPHING (A BIT LONG SO TAKE YOUR TIME TO WATCH)
MY SUGGESTION IS LEARN THE TECHNIQUE WITH ONE, MAYBE TWO FLIES. THEN IF YOU FEEL THE SUCCESS RATIO WILL APPRECIABLY IMPROVE WITH THREE FLIES GO FOR IT. PERSONALLY, I MOST OFTEN FISH WITH ONE TO TWO NYMPHS…I AM NOT SURE WHY I TYPED THIS IN ALL CAPS BUT I’M NOT SHOUTING…I’M JUST TOO LAZY TO RE-TYPE ALL THIS.
Split Shot
Ah, split shot. Maybe for awhile they stay in a small zip lock bag or plastic tube. Eventually, for me, they are scattered in vest pockets, pontoon side cargo pouches, wader pockets, gear bags, fanny packs…….. They are everywhere. So why don’t you use a bit more when it counts…on your leader above or below the fly. If it is legal to attach to your leader (check reg’s…if not use heavily weighted flies) then pay attention to your presentation. Are you fishing the proper zone (depth) while dredging nymphs in heavier waters? Yes, you risk the hangups, break offs, lost flies/tippet and re-rigging. But, you also will catch more fish holding in tough lies.
When I shorten my line, add weight and dredge in heavier waters my catch rate goes up dramatically compared to the longer line/leader set up and lighter offering. The fish are use to debris bouncing/swirling along the bottom. Often the pattern you are using is less important than the presentation. Also, enter Czech Nymphing in the Search Blog Archives search box, upper right for how to info Cz Nymphing, which is (regardless of pattern) a good, basic start to nymph with a shorter line. Wade carefully for safety and a stealth approach.
Oh, when you do hang up, don’t go reaming up on that rod like you are fishing with your old Bi Mart cheapo rod. You can give a sharp snap or two and if you are indeed hung up then pull the line straight until the setup either pulls free or you break off. Sometimes moving up stream a bit extricates the setup from beneath the rocks it wedged under. Check your line for abrasion and nicks too.
Stonefly Nymph Box (SwittersB)Ah, May/June! Chasing the Salmon Fly and Golden Stone crawl outs and hatches. Fishing your nymphs on the bottom where they crawl toward shore or below the rapids, where they have been dislodged and been carried into slightly deeper water. It is a fun Western U.S. event and interesting to witness the actual emergence (crawling onto shore/emergence from the nymphal body).
This action will carry on into July depending upon water temps. The California Stones (Salmon Fly) will end first and the Golden Stones will linger longer. It is a chuck it-sling it-stay tight to the fly-short line-drift affair. You can and probably should attach a second fly to the Stonefly (smaller nymph or a wet fly). Just remember, to avoid tangles, to think of your cast as a lob, open loop affair rather than trying to produce a standard cast with a tighter loop. Tangles and hooks into the back of the neck may result. Some will advocate throwing a longer line, and indeed sometimes you will have to chuck and duck and mend to get to a prime lie. But, I would advise the beginner to fish shorter and tighter to the fly with only a mend or two at most. Casting a heavy nymph by loading rod with water tension…
http://tongarirorivermotel.co.nz/2010/08/casting-tongariro-bombs/
“Must have” patterns both annoy me, and as they should, simplify things. A ‘must have’ pattern can be a trap. Tie it on and go. A ‘must have’ pattern must work all the time, anywhere?
Such is the case with scuds. Most articles are like every one was originally issued a press release from the Fishing Guru 25 years ago and every writer feels obligated to issue the same chopped release/phrases for their region. It smacks of an obligatory inclusion on the last page of a book.
As with any outing, it is better to do some research first re a stream, lake, etc. before going blind. Research on line for info about hatches and when they most often appear (May to June; late afternoons; overcast days best). Also, how to fish them is critical. The presentation of the fly. How would the real ‘insect’ or critter act in the water?
You might be able to gather some meaningful info from your fly shop and a pattern or two to use.
Such is the case with scuds, the ‘must have’ pattern. You will find this must have pattern: drifted and jerked in rapids and riffles with a split shot 6″ above; also you will find it fished deep in stillwaters and the slower, backwaters of rivers beneath a strike indicator with no weight save the fly’s/hook’s weight.
The ‘must have’ scud seems capable of being in all waters and anywhere in those waters according to the varied articles and posts. As with many things for the beginning fly fisher/tier the signs of certainty and clarity are confusing re scuds once you read past ‘must have’.
I won’t propose to be an expert re scuds. I have fished them on tailwater fisheries and done well in quieter, weedy side waters drifting slowly near the bottom. In stillwaters in B.C. and near home, I have fished longer leaders on a floating line and let the fly sink down amongst the weeds and worked the pattern near the bottom, moving it in a slow jigging motion (and yes getting tangled, so a slip strike indicator may be in order…query upper right in search box re slip strike indicator).
I tied the patterns from size 18’s to size 10’s. I like Orange ( a common color for a dead or supposedly egg laden female), tan, and my favorite olive.. Some patterns can be tied with the traditional scud/Czech-Caddsi Pupa configuration as below here:
Both of the above patterns have the back strap of plastic material that is tied in at the bend with ribbing material (wire usually). The body material is either dubbed up the shank or wrapped up the shank (micro chenille and a sparse hackle wrap or two). Then the back strap is pulled over and secured at the eye with the ribbing following to hold the back strap in place. This tying sequence is used in one form or another for Czech, Polish, Caddis, Scud patterns. Large or small.
Another pattern, less sophisticated and still worthy is one I use for Scuds for sizes 10 to 14. I use an Estaz material that is a synthetic (plastic) chenille material. I tie on and wrap up and simply trim the top bristly material away and that is it. It is a great pattern. It can be slightly weighted. I don’t put on a bead, but you could for a Caddis Pupa pattern.
So, to recap on ‘must have’ Scud’ pattern: research your waters you fish. Do they have scuds? Where are they likely to live in your waters? How would you present the pattern to best put it where they live and maybe move it to suggest life? How would I tie a pattern that looks close in size, color and movement to imitate the real life scud. Research Estaz as a fly tying material and look at the sizes. It is not the same as Sparkle Chenille.
Not to confuse matters more, for the heck of it do a little research on sow bugs as well as they are often linked to scuds (freshwater shrimp) in stream habitat. See if they reside in the same parts of the stream’s holding waters. Good luck and as usual have fun!
